Lamb chops smoked over century-old persimmon wood and leaves at Xi Yin in Hangzhou. The eastern Chinese city is reclaiming its place as one of the country's culinary capitals. (Courtesy of Xi Yin) Once dismissed as a 'food desert,' the Chinese city is now a fine dining destination HANGZHOU, China — For years, Hangzhou — the capital of eastern China's Zhejiang province — was little more than a tourist stopover. Visitors glided across West Lake, sipped prized Longjing tea, then resigned themselves to mediocre West Lake Vinegar Fish and Longjing Shrimp. These mass-produced dishes, served to transient crowds, offered neither the aroma of green tea nor the sweetness of fresh river harvests. To the outside world, the "city of poets" had somehow devolved into a gastronomic desert.
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